Sunday, 2 November 2014

A week with the Thuso Center...




There have been a lot of times in my life where I know my perspective on something has changed, but there have been very few moments where I have actively felt my world view shift. It’s marked by those rare times where I experience something which I know has left an indelible mark on me. This blog post is about was one of those occasions.

This past week at the clinic (my second week) I had the privilege of going around Shakawe with four men who work for the Thuso Center located in Maun (the closest big town to me, about 6-8 hours away). The Thuso Center provides learning and job training opportunities as well as community-based outreach for persons living with disabilities in Botswana. At the actual center in Maun, as well as other locations across Botswana, they train disabled Batswana (meaning people of Botswana) in things like leather works, agriculture, computer literacy, and so on. Then once a year they send out a team to visit their clients in their homes. This week they were in the greater Shakawe area and I had the privilege of doing these home visits with them along with my counterpart here, the clinic’s Health Education Assistant (HEA). 

I quickly realized that advocacy for individuals living with disabilities in this country is an area that has a lot of room to grow. Of course there are exceptions, but Batswana tend to hide their family members who are born with disabilities. Until this past week, I had not seen a single person with a noticeable disability in this country. And then in three days in my village alone I met people with Down’s Syndrome, Cerebral Palsy, hydrocephaly, Spina bifida, autism, physical deformities, blindness, and other ailments. In each case, the men from Thuso would sit down with the disabled person and the caregivers, often the mother, aunt, grandmother, or other maternal figures.

 I realized how much I have taken for granted our system in America for integrating persons with disabilities into mainstream society as much as possible. Granted there are many stories of poor treatment and discrimination in America as well, but in my personal experience they do not compare to what I have seen here. Take the school systems for example: in my public primary schooling in America I remember going to school with individuals with disabilities. Sometimes they would be in their own special education classrooms and sometimes they would be integrated into our classes, often with an aid helping them do the work as best they could. In Botswana, they can either be shipped off to special boarding schools or they don’t attend school at all. In the latter cases, they are kept at home and inside day in and day out. They have no social or academic stimulation and are therefore probably further stunted in their development. The team from Thuso fought last year to let in just three disabled students into the local primary school. Once there, however, it seems many of the teachers don’t know how to handle them. They punish and beat them for not performing as well as the other students. These disabled children are also ridiculed and beaten by fellow classmates because they are different. With the Thuso team we went and did an “awareness” at Shakawe Primary School where these beatings were taking place. As much as I hope the young kids understood the message Thuso was trying to get across, as is typical of kids under the age of 12, there was a lot of laughing, yawning, etc. It was another moment of frustration for me…I wanted to just stand up and somehow be able to make them understand how not-okay it is to treat another person like that. Regardless of how they look. Regardless of what they say or do.

We visited many people this week, but decided to include just a couple vignettes from what I experienced this week below. The names I used are made-up, but the stories are entirely true. I hope you are moved by them as much as I have been:

Mpho:  We drove up to a compound one morning in a vehicle marked clearly with “Thuso Center” to visit a young boy with a non-descript mental handicap and physical disability. He didn’t have the ability to walk or talk, and instead spent many hours sitting in the same position on the floor with his legs bent under/behind him. He had the first signs of pressure ulcers along his curved spine—an undeniable discoloration that should not have been there. Mpho’s mother was supposed to be carrying out simple physical therapy exercises with her son so that his legs would not become permanently bent under him in the manner he was sitting.  The men from Thuso had shown her how to do these exercises last year, and had previously explained to her that she only needed to do them for a few minutes every day. It had now been a year since the Thuso team had visited Mpho, but they were frustrated by the fact that his legs were becoming more and more stiff and could no longer be extended out of about a 90degree angle. To make matters worse, Mpho’s mother was nowhere to be seen. The family at first tried to make up reasons she was missing, but it soon became clear she had run and hid at a neighboring house when she saw the Thuso vehicle coming. She knew she had done wrong by the boy. 

Karabo: We pulled up to a nice looking house that had tall barbed wire fence surrounding the extent of the property. We found the mother and father at home with a young boy of about 4 years, and also with Karabo, who was around 12 years old. Karabo clearly had autism. Upon speaking to the parents, we learned that both have government jobs. The mother works locally, while the father works in another village a few hours away (it is normal for the government workers to place their employees anywhere in the country without much regard for the location of their families). Unlike Mpho, the parents seemed to have a real concern for their son, but they seemed exhausted. As we pulled up, both were preparing to go to work, leaving Karabo home alone. It became clear in that instant that the barbed wire fence was not to keep people out, but rather to keep Karabo in when they were not there. The parents had tried multiple times to register Karabo in a special boarding school for individuals with disabilities, and also in the regular local schools, but were rejected on all fronts. The social workers in Shakawe and neighboring Gunmare also refused to help the family because both parents work for the government. They were told they could afford to hire an outside person on their own to care for the child when they were gone, but they hardly getting by as it was. The father also had requested multiple times to be transferred to a government office near Shakawe so he could stay at home, but had been denied multiple times. They were clearly at the end of their rope, exhausted, and quickly losing hope.

Lorato: We found this 15 year old girl sitting under a tree by herself in a tattered-looking wheel chair. When we pulled up, the girl’s aunt came out from a neighboring house and informed us that the mother was nowhere to be found…again. The mother has seemingly turned her back on the maternal responsibilities she has for Lorato. After more probing, we learned that Lorato has a seizure disorder and was prescribed a medication to prevent them. If she doesn’t take them, her seizures will increase in length and frequency and cause damage to Lorato’s brain. When the mother picked up the medication, she threw them away along with the paperwork stating that the girl was in need of them. In this country, disabled persons also receive a food basket from the government. Unfortunately, in the case of Lorato and many others we saw, it seems as if perhaps the family is only using the child for the food basket. It became clear the while Lorato’s mother was MIA and/or intoxicated most of the time, the mother’s sister/Lorato’s aunt was the one making sure the girl was clean and fed. She instructed us on where to find the mother, and we ventured off to find her in town. The men from Thuso had a stern conversation with her about how she was treating Lorato. They even had to remind her that she should love her daughter, regardless of her disability. The mother avoided eye contact for most of the conversation. She shared her belief that her daughter was born this way because of some sort of witchcraft, a very widespread belief in this part of the country and a major reason for why people hide family members with these disabilities. Hopefully it was communicated to her well enough that her daughter’s condition is not the result of witchcraft, that she shouldn’t be ashamed, and that she should find it within herself to love her daughter, regardless of her condition. But we will have to wait until next year to see if she will be able to step up as a mother to her daughter, who never did anything to make her unworthy of something which should come so simply—her mother’s love.

It was very hard for me this past week to bring a non-judgmental front to these home visits. When it became clear that some instances involved differing levels of neglect and maltreatment, I found a rising wave of frustration that I couldn’t suppress. And I didn’t want to ignore it. Instead, I’m using it to fuel ideas for ways to incorporate issues of disabilities in this country and in this village into my service. I’m not sure what form that will take yet, but I know it will be an important part of what I do here.

Life at the edge of the (Botswana) map.


During the day, livestock roam the flood plains



A majority of the houses in Shakawe are made traditionally from mud and cement and have thatched reed roofs.


There is a strong aquaculture here that I have loved learning about. Whenever I am bored on the weekends, I wander down to the water which is just a stone’s throw out my back fence. There are always groups of people fishing and collecting lily tubers and bulbs. They collect everything from little minnow-sized fish to bigger ones that could take up the better part of a dinner plate. Interestingly, the free mosquito nets that my clinic distributes get used as fishing nets instead. They tie a brick in the center and then drag it through the water. There is also a large lily pond right out back that the women trudge through to pull up the lily roots. Hippos and crocs are a common thing here, but very few people seem to be concerned about them as they swim and wade uninhibitedly. Unfortunately there are reported cases of deaths from encounters with these animals. The hippos also like to wander inland during the rainy season….I was advised to keep my gate closed because they will wander into my yard otherwise!


 
The boys love to swim, despite the crocs and hippos


Afternoon fishing

Women wading through the lily pond collecting tubers and stems

 
 

Sorting through the lilies
 
 
 
Picking tiny fish out of the mosquito net/fishing net




All of the fish go into one big bucket. They fry up all of the little ones together and then the big ones are cooked separately.



"Mokoro," a traditional canoe carved from a single trunk

 
 One of my favorite times of the day is around sunrise, when there are no livestock or people out on the floodplains yet. The sun comes up right over the water, and it is beautiful. There is a pack of dogs that I have come to call the “delta dogs” that romp in the early hours of the morning and late in the evening. They are very friendly, and one day last week they all came running up to me and ambushed me (in a friendly way), muddy paws and all.

The delta dogs at sunrise


Sunrise over the delta in my backyard
 
 
One of the dogs likes to hang out at my house sometimes. Dogs in this country are never allowed inside the house, so she likes to get as close as she can, despite how much I try to lure her in :) 
 
 
 People in this area also harvest reeds from the delta to use for house construction, roofing, basket weaving, and other uses as well. This time of year is best to harvest because the water level is low. Women go out in pairs at the beginning of the day to harvest reeds. By going in pairs, they are able to talk to each other, and the sound of their voices wards off any hippos or other dangerous animals. I love to sit and watch them come home at the end of the day with large bundles of reeds balanced on the tops of their heads.
Reed collectors coming home after a day on the flood plains
 

Keep driving until you see a sign for Shakawe. If you hit Namibia you've gone too far....


 
Getting from Serowe to Shakawe was no easy feat. In fact, it took three days, a good dose of frustration, and a whole lot of anticipatory energy. We were supposed to leave early Thursday morning, but our driver decided to spend Wednesday night in Maun, a village very far from where we were supposed to meet. Needless to say, we didn’t end up departing until Friday. After loading our things into the flatbed of a truck, two other PC volunteers and myself piled into the cramped cab of a car bound north.

 

The drive was actually nice—we got to see a lot of the country that we had yet to see. We passed by a few diamond mining towns, a big salt pan, and a very flat and grassy part of the country with very little vegetation. The first time we saw elephants on the drive, I asked our driver (Mbango) if we were passing through a game reserve of some sort. He responded with, “No, they are just there.” Upon seeing our excitement over the eles, he veered off the tar road and into the bush to get us a closer view. Luckily we managed not to lose any luggage in the expedition through the thorn trees! When we were driving through the flat grassy part of the country I mentioned earlier, we saw three more elephants. We pulled over to the side of the road and watched as they advanced towards us and passed behind the car. No matter how many wild elephants I will see in my life, I could watch the movements of this animal endlessly.



 
passing behind the car with all our things packed tightly in


We finally made it to Maun, a big village on the apex of the delta. It was about 2:30 by this point, and we stopped for some food at a grocery store. The driver had gotten a call from his supervisor telling him to stop by the Toyota dealer in Maun to see if the car needed a tune-up. In fact, it did. It needed “major service.” They said they wouldn’t be done with it until 4:30 or 5:00 that evening. Suddenly all of the progress and elephant-happy hours we had spent in the car seemed all for naught. I clearly wasn’t going to make it to my village today. I couldn’t help but feel my heart sink. Was I ever going to get there? Maybe I was being a little melodramatic, but to be honest, I had never felt this kind of frustration before: the complete inability to get somewhere that you wanted to be so badly. In America, you can find a way….a friend will drive you, or maybe the Metro is going that direction, or you could even rent a car. But with my couple big bags of pots and dishes and my belongings for the next two years, I was stuck sitting in the car dealership for several hours. We finally got back on the road around 6:15.

 

As the sun set and night began to fall, it was very clear why driving at night is a big no-no for Peace Corps volunteers. There were donkeys and cows that seemed to come out of nowhere from the bush. Not to mention the pot holes and parts of the road that narrowed to less than the width of a one lane road. At one point, our driver had to stop the car and take a damp piece of paper to wipe the bugs off the windshield because it was impossible to see out, and the wipers only smeared the buggy mess. The air was so thick with the insects that while we were driving, if you closed your eyes, it sounded like it could have been drizzling. The other two PCVs and I could only look at each other and start laughing, wondering what we had gotten ourselves into by requesting to be in a part of the country where we could conduct malaria projects (we later learned that they were not mosquitoes, just a cloud of some other flying insect…a little bit of a relief?).


 

As we were driving, we passed the first sign that had “Shakawe” on it. I honestly don’t know what came over me, but after a few longs days of anticipation and traveling and frustration, I started crying. A lot. Good thing that after spending all day in close quarters with a group of people, any embarrassment I would have otherwise felt was long gone. I was overcome with the realization that after over two years of fighting Peace Corps Headquarters to become a PCV, I was almost to my new home. Seeing that sign and watching the kilometers left to go decrease with each passing sign sent through me a totally unexpected wave of emotion. I am doing this. And I am almost there.

 

After a brief stop in Gunmare, we continued on to Etsha 6, where the closest of the three of us would be living. We were dropped off and it was all we could do not to collapse upon opening her front door. And after the initial excitement of seeing her new little house, we did just that.

 
 
 
Mosquito nets are a must up here (whether you can hang it or not). Can you spot the tired PCV?
 


The next morning was both wonderful and a test of my patience. The three of us made breakfast consisting of scrambled eggs with cheese and bread with Nutella. It may not sound like much, but it was a feast and a perfect inaugural meal for the house. I knew transportation was coming to pick me up, but I was unsure when exactly it would be, so I took a chair outside and practiced being patient…again. Finally finally finally, I spotted a vehicle turn the corner with the words “SHAKAWE MOBILE CLINIC” proudly displayed across the side. I promise I am not being overly dramatic when I say that in that moment, I started to get extremely light headed and felt like I was going to pass out. I took several deep breaths, put my head between my knees, and collected myself. It was finally time to go home.


I was dropped off at my house in Shakawe, about 11km from the Namibian border, and upon entering my house I quickly realized there was no furniture other than a mattress. I had no stove, no refrigerator, no gas, nada, and no guarantee of when they would come. I’m not going to lie, I sat on the floor in the middle of my empty living room for about 15 minutes, unsure of what to do next. It was the first time I had felt completely alone in almost three months. I simultaneously loved and (unexpectedly) hated it. But I finally got my wits about me and made a plan. I remember telling myself—“I am a Girl Scout and a Peace Corps Volunteer. I can do this.” I started gathering fire wood from my yard to use later to boil some water. In the process I met the woman who lives on the same compound as me and mentioned my situation to her. About 20 minutes later, she showed up to my door with a heaping plate of food. I almost cried from her kindness. With a full belly,  I gathered my backpack, wallet, and some water and decided to set out to find the grocery store to buy some non-refrigerated food to tide me over until my fridge decided to show up…not exactly sure where the store was or how far away. At about that moment, my supervisor pulled up to my house with an electric hot plate to hold me over until the gas situation was worked out. I felt like I could breathe out a little bit.

My refrigerator arrived the next day. As I write this a week later, I finally have a propane cylinder in my house, but my stove and the rest of my furniture is still sitting in a trailer at the clinic. For now the floor is my table, my chair, my couch, and my stove top.  Stay tuned, folks.

 

 

Monday, 13 October 2014

Pictures from site annoncement!

Anxiously waiting

Reading my proverb and site!

Pointing to my new home






A Botswana Wedding (or two...)



 
 

It has become apparent pretty quickly that we have entered wedding season here in Botswana. And they do things a little differently than in the States. First of all, there are two weddings for each couple—one in the kgotla (ward) from which the groom is from, and a whole nother ceremony in the kgotla where the bride is from. Sometimes the bride and groom are from entirely different parts of the country, so they will have two ceremonies on two different weekends in different villages. Secondly, anyone can come to a wedding, no invitation necessary. Maybe the bride is a relative of yours. Maybe you hear about it from a friend of a friend. Maybe you just live in the area, hear music playing and want to grab some free food. Apparently everyone is invited. The immediate family sits under a big tent, while everyone else sits around the yard wherever to eat. It’s very much organized chaos.


I’ve been to two weddings now, and at each one the menu seems to be pretty standard. All of the food is cooked in huge cast iron pots over open fires. There are usually lots of women relatives who are behind the scenes mixing huge buckets of food. Even with so many guests, there always manage to be leftovers! Here’s what’s generally served:

-          bogobe jwa legapu (sorghum porridge made with sour milk and with melon added into it)
-          rice (different varieties)
-          Samp (made from kernels of corn that have had the outer shell removed…this is one of my favorite things to eat here)
-          Seswa (basically pulverized meat from all parts of the animal that are combined)
-          Legata (a mixture of beans, samp, and, if you’re lucky, some peanuts thrown in)
-          beet root (seems to be sort of pickled a lot of the time)
-          Setswana-style coleslaw (Batswana love cabbage and what they call “tangy mayonnaise”)
-          Lephutshe (butternut squash cooked and mashed)
-          potato salad (more tangy mayonnaise…and peas too?)
-          Chicken
-          and a couple other variations of meat

 

I learned that at the last wedding I went to, there were five cows that had been slaughtered for the event. So you can imagine that having enough food to feed the entire village is a ton of food. Interestingly, some portions of the cow go to certain family members. For example, the bride’s uncle (called the “malome”—the mother’s brother) negotiates a lot of things for the wedding, and he gets a whole shoulder/leg I believe. One aspect of the whole marriage he arranges is the lebola, or essentially the dowry. The higher status the bride has, the more cows the groom’s family must pay for him to marry her. Even with more modern families in Botswana, this is still something that seems to be widely practiced. In Setswana, it is very apparent how important family is just based on the huge variety of words used to describe family members, other than malome, there are specific words for older siblings, younger siblings, siblings of the opposite sex, cousins, and on and on. (there also a million words for the color brown, while the colors blue and green are called the same thing….can you tell it’s a drought-ridden country?


The entertainment is great, too. There are always a group of traditional dancers that are brought in to entertain the guests. They wear animal skins and have some sort of seeds tied around their ankles that rattle and make noise when they step. It’s really fun to watch—definitely one of my favorite parts. The bridal party also does a choreographed dance before the food is served. Apparently it’s a big deal, as the bridal party meets every weekend for months leading up to the event to practice for a few hours. It’s definitely impressive!


 
After the entertainment and everyone has eaten, all of the married women sit with the bride, while all of the married men sit with the groom. I don’t know what exactly is said in the groom’s circle, but I was able to watch the bride’s. A friend and I were sitting outside of the circle, and a few basadi bogolo (old women) motioned for us to come and sit inside it with them. As you can see below, all of the women had their head and shoulders covered, which we did not. A woman ran over making a high pitched shrill noise and put shawls around both of us. Our heads were still uncovered, but that seemed to be okay. The photographer, a friend of the bride’s, wasn’t even allowed in because she was wearing pants…apparently a big no-no. One at a time, different women got up and stood in front of the bride—there was singing, shouting, kneeling, dancing, all sorts of weird things going on. We learned later that they were giving her advice on how to stay grounded and not try to change her husband, etc. Basically advice to her on marriage. They also gave her a shawl and a head scarf to tie around her head, thus signifying that she is now a married woman. There were some very old women there who could hardly stand up, and they were getting down on their knees to offer her advice. It was really neat to witness and I’m so thankful that they let us sit with them and be included. The women then are all served a jello/custard dessert (wedding cake doesn’t seem to be a thing here), while the men get to feast on what is considered the best part of the cow—the back and the stomach. Only men are allowed to eat this meat. I also learned that it is supposed to signify the joining of two families coming from different places (back/stomach) but combining to make something special (yummy?).

The basadi bogolo giving advice to the bride.
 

Sunday, 14 September 2014

Chickens, chickens, chickens

 
As many of you know already, I love chickens. I hatched some this past summer and would probably have tried to keep them if I wasn't coming over here! There are a ridiculous number of chickens here.... especially roosters. I have to wear ear plugs at night because the roosters call back and forth to each other all night long. Anyone who has called me here I'm sure has had the pleasure of hearing them in the background of the call. This morning I woke up around 5:30 and there was a chorus of them that sounded like they were coming from all corners of Serowe. It was kind of melodic in a weird way. It's also funny here because they like to sleep in trees.... not joking.

 
They sort of let them wander all over the neighborhood, but they come back at night for food. They give them corn kernels which we spent an afternoon literally knocking off of corn cobs with a heavy wooden stick. They pile the cobs up in a corner of the yard and then whack them over and over again, sweeping up the loose kernels that they knocked off as they go. It was exhausting. I kept thinking that there had to be a better way to do it but I really think that there wasn't... they pretty much have it down to a science.
 
 
Some of the neighborhood kids hanging out
 
 
My family also recently purchased 50 day-old chicks. When I came home from school that first day and looked in the chicken coop, I just about died of happiness. Just imagine that many tiny fluffy yellow chickies running around. I took lots of pictures and stood watching them for a ridiculously long time. It is pretty impressive to see the heating system they have (pictured below). Basically they take a metal pail and put hot coals in it, and then they elevate it a couple of inches off the ground by hanging it from the ceiling of the coop to create the equivalent of a heat lamp for them. Every night they fill it with hot coals before bed and the chicks huddle under and around the suspended bucket. Interestingly, learning these types of heating and incubation techniques is built into their junior secondary school curriculum (the equivalent of middle school in the States).
 
The next morning after we got the chicks, my family informed me that I was going to cry in 6 weeks when they are going to slaughter all of them and sell the meat for profit. Such is Africa...
 

babies sleeping  
 
I have tons more chicken stories, but seeing as how I am probably the most obsessed with chickens out of anyone reading this blog, I'll save them for another time ;)

Sunday, 31 August 2014

How to take a bucket bath.




How to take a bucket bath:

1.       Heat up water in a cast iron cauldron on the fire and bring it to a boil (note: this may take a very long time and you are advised to go do something else and come back and check an hour or so after lighting the fire)

2.       Scoop out maybe a liter or two of hot water into the industrial sized plastic bucket provided for you, and transport it into the bathroom. Be sure to refill the cauldron on the fire and stoke the fire to make sure a good flame is going for the next person’s bath water.

3.       Pour the hot water into a smaller bucket and add room temperature water until filled.

4.       While on your hands and knees, dip your entire head into the bucket. This may require a bit of maneuvering in order to fully submerge all of your hair. It should feel like you are half way to a handstand with your head, neck, and shoulders perpendicular to the ground as best you can manage.

5.       Remove your head and add shampoo and conditioner (it is best to add both at the same time so as to only require one further head dunk.

6.       Resubmerge your head into the bucket and swish your hair around a little bit to get the soap out.

7.       Use a wash cloth to wet the rest of your body before sudsing up with a bar of soap. Then rinse off the soap with the wash cloth. (note: some peace corps volunteers have found that the use of a cup is also good for rising).

8.       Dump the warm bath water over your body when you are finished. Close your eyes and pretend it is a shower. Because it is the closest thing you are going to get. Be careful to leave a few inches of water at the bottom to pour directly into the tub, as there are usually increased levels of sediment settled there that one should not pour on oneself.

9.       Repeat twice a day, as directed by your insistent host mother. (Note: it is easier to pretend to bath twice a day rather than try to explain American bathing habits. Just splash around a little bit and change your clothes and that seems to satisfy the quota).



 

Homestay Update 1: Settling in

(This blog post was written on August 21)
 
A picture from my neighborhood. I am staying just up that hill.
 
I have been in my homestay for about two weeks now, and every day brings both new surprises and an increased sense of comfort (usually). The food is getting more familiar, and actually is not as scary as I anticipated. I’m trying to give up my vegetarianism while in homestay in order to experience the culinary culture, and I have definitely jumped in the deep end a little. We have goat most nights for dinner, and there is an entire goat head sitting in our freezer….not sure what it is waiting there for…. This culture also places a LOT of value on the starches. I’ve been eating lots of phaletshe (an almost grits-like corn-based food) and sorghum (a dish called “mabele,” which apparently also means breasts if you say it with the wrong intonation….so watch out). While hearing my name dropped in the middle of a mile-a-minute Setswana conversation (often followed by laughter) is still disheartening, establishing my routine is making things a bit easier.

 
A typical day right now looks something like this:
6:30—wake up, breakfast, pack lunch, get ready for school
7:30-9:30—Setswana lesson
9:30-5:00—School (we have lots of different sessions on health, safety, culture, international development, public health, etc)
5:00-8:30—time spent with host family (includes dinner, then we usually watch TV and they talk a lot…while I try to maybe catch a few words of what they are saying…)
8:30-9:00—me time (study Setswana, do homework for school, blog writing, read, etc)
9:00—if I’m still awake, it is absolutely time for bed.
 

I seem to be picking up Setswana fairly easily, which has been a relief for me. It is nothing like English or Spanish (no shock there), and direct translations are sometimes hard. There are about a million tiny words (“ke” “ka” “ko” “kwa” “mo” “ba” “le” “la” “me” “fa” and on and on and on) that mean different things in different contexts and depending on the way you say them. Setswana is a tonal language, which makes it beautifully melodic but also complicated. For example, the letter “o” by itself could mean “you” or “him/her/it” depending on the intonation with which it is said. So that’s really not confusing at all. And on top of that there are 18 different ways to make words plural, depending on seemingly arbitrary grammatical groupings of nouns. But, that aside, I am starting to be able to pick out words and sometimes small phrases from my host family’s conversations. And when I lose confidence in myself and am frustrated by my lack of understanding, I usually just play with one of my one year-old twin siblings, which requires no Setswana and only funny faces. Here’s a small sample of some of my basic Setswana for those of you who are interested:

Dumela! Leina le me ke Maureen. Ke nna mo Serowe kwa go Merapelo. Ke tswa ko America mo Washington, DC. Ke moithaopi wa Peace Corps le ke ithuta Setswana le ngwao. Ke tla go bona kgantele!
 
Translation: Hello! My name is Maureen. I am staying in Serowe with Merapelo. I am from America in Washington, DC. I am a Peace Corps Volunteer and I am studying Setswana and culture. See you later!
It’s pretty cool to think that all of that would have been gibberish to me a little over a week ago!
 
Until next time...
 
 
-M

An Intention.


Ever since I applied to the Peace Corps, and more recently since I accepted the invitation to Botswana, I have been thinking a lot about my intention for my time here. Why do I want to spend over two years of my life in another country and immersed in an unfamiliar culture, far removed from my comfort zone and my support system? To some people that might sound completely absurd and undesirable. But for those who know me, it is a perfect fit. It’s not often that I feel called to do something. I felt it when I first heard about Joseph’s House, where I spent my last year serving through Americorps. And I felt it when I made the commitment to the Peace Corps. It was a terrifying decision, one that I grappled a great deal with, but I believe that it will prove to be the right one.

                I realized over the past year how much value I place in service work. It has been a distinct and defining part of my life for as long as I can remember, but I don’t think I truly recognized its importance in my values and priorities until the past year. For me, service work is so much more than just “doing good” and feeling good about yourself as a result of it. Because that, in itself, seems selfish to me. Service work is less about me, the server, and more about the population and individuals being served. It is about accompaniment, and that is what I am striving for.

                I have been really pleased so far with how much the Peace Corps’ approach to development work lines up with my own views. As a Peace Corps volunteer, my approach to development is first and foremost person-to-person centered. By nature, it is a bottom-up strategy that focuses on capacity building as defined by the community, not my own agenda. Even if I think I have identified a need in the community, without local buy-in it is already a failed idea. The PC approach promotes sustainable projects and initiatives that involve community stakeholders as trainers, mentors, co-facilitators, etc. It's an approach that I really believe is not accomplishable unless you totally immerse yourself into the village and culture you are in... something I don't think I could do working with pretty much any other development agency.

                Over the course of the next 2+ years, I don’t want to just initiate projects, train community members, and spread health education messages. Rather, I want to foster relationships. Accompaniment through this type of work is about mutual growth and development. It is not about an agenda or a work plan. It is not about making as big an impact as I can in two short years. It is not about adding accomplishments to a resume. Service through accompaniment is about walking alongside and matching your stride with the people you are serving. It is about following their bumpy, dirt path, even though your paved and unpitted one may have branched off a while back. I’m not sure what my Peace Corps service has in store for me, but I do know how I want to approach this experience.

To accept everything and push away nothing.

To serve with an open heart.